And so to Brazil

A morning wander around the local bit of Santiago was all that we could manage before our check out time and pick up for our airport transfer.  For once, no issues at the airport.  A bit of a delay in leaving - no idea as to how to queue or, in the staff, how to manage a queue!

We are now in transit at Sao Paolo awaiting the call for the last leg of this trip and looking forward to getting home.

TdP to Punta Arenas to Santiago

A less than exciting day. 4 hours in a minibus, two hours in queues and 3 and 3/4 hours on a plane and we made it back to Santiago and our third night at the Hotal Lastarria.  We dumped our stuff changed and wandered out around 8.15 to the street nearby where we had eaten before and decided on revisiting the restaurant we had been to between Rapa Nui and Punta Arenas.  We had a meat feast - a Patagonian mixed grill, which was enough to defeat both of us.  With a Chilean Malbec to wash it down, it was a fitting last meal of the holiday.  The decision to order a port for Ingrid as a night-cap may yet prove to be a mistake (no half measures here! See the bottle of water for scale........)

Torres del Paine 4

Our last day in Patagonia and we had chosen another long hike - although we were assured that it was shorter than the French Valley walk. We started off at the estancia where we had done our riding yesterday.  The walk took us along the valley that contains the Lago Azul and thereafter along the old glacial valley and through the beech forest - some of which had been burned in the 2011 fire and other bits had survived.  We saw plenty of the birds that are active in the area; we also saw both a grey and a red fox, along with the usual rheas and guanaco.  The weather was really good - very clear so we were treated to some great views.

We took lunch in the beech forest and then set out to reach and climb a viewpoint at the end of the d'Agostini Pass.  The climb up the hill was not overly onerous and the view from the top, over the lakes and rivers that are fed by the glaciers and meander to Punta Natales, was quite something.  We were at such a height that we also had views of the main massif of Torres del Paine.

(Most of the lakes are amazingly different colours!)

The descent, once we returned to the main path, was probably the trickiest part of the walk with loose and fine slate to be negotiated on a 500m drop.  We reached the end of the walk with the remainder of the group of 10 all very satisfied with the hike and the views along the way.

There was not much conversation in the return trip to the hotel - all a little tired.  Then, for us, it is a matter of sorting what we need for the next couple of days and, thereafter, for Ingrid to try to lever the rest into the suitcases.  We will be minus one pair of walking boots - Ingrid's, which failed to survive the rigours of 4 days of Patagonian paths!

Torres del Paine 3

After yesterday's walk, we were pleased to have chosen a gentler itinerary today.  First up, we had a ride with a gaucho through the beech forest on an estancia on the edge of the national park.  As we were the only two guests on this outing, we were able to go at our own pace and enjoy the views and spotting the wildlife in the woodland.  The horses are very steady and sure-footed up the slopes and through the streams.  Both of us thoroughly enjoyed the ride. On the way there, we saw a crested cara-cara sitting on a fence-post and, on the way back, some black headed ibis.

After lunch, we went on a short walk to a viewpoint called the Mirador Cuernos, the viewpoint looking over a lake at the towers.  It was not a taxing walk, but the wind got up, which meant that it seemed several degrees cooler and, notwithstanding the lack of sun, led to some windburn in spite of the sun block.  On the way back, we visited a waterfall that provides the exit of water from one lake to another. Some years ago, melt water from the glaciers washed away the bridge that carried the lakeside footpath.  Again, the scale of devastion caused by the 2011 fire was evident.

Sunset on the plateau (which we walked the length of on the first morning)

We now know that we are nearing the end of our trip as we have booked in for our next flight - Punta Arenas to Santiago.

Torres del Paine 2

We had opted for an all day hike today.  Ingrid thought that it was 10 'til 5 and was a little dismayed when she learned it was 8 until 8!  The day involved a drive of about 40 minutes to a dock, a catamaran trip of 30 minutes across a lake of an unreal blue and then a short time getting fixed to start walking.  We were to walk to the French valley.

What was advertised as a 15km walk should be the subject of a bit of an examination.  We had to walk 1km or a bit more to the trail.  When we reached the measured destination, we had another kilometre to the viewpoint over the French glacier that was our destination. 

The walk took us up a route behind the towers and into a glaciated valley.  The area had, as with a huge amount of the park, been badly affected by a fire in 2011.  Trees that take 100 years to grow 8 feet had been destroyed and areas that were forested are covered with grass and small bushes.  The recovery time is well beyond our lifetimes and all because a small group decided to burn their loo paper rather than carry it out of the park!

Trees, stripped of their burnt bark, were a beautiful silver colour (but very dead).

The views of the mountains and the differing Rock formations was great.  The glacier was in a few parts and, to be frank, we have been spoiled over the past 10 days.

One of the group was taken ill (a reaction to gluten) which threw the plans a bit.  We upped the pace on the way up so we could make a 1700 boat back, but the walk back was still relatively leisurely. (Pete's opinion not Ingrid's!)  In the end, as another guide has divulged, we did 20km or more today.  We returned tired but satisfied with the achievement.  The gluten free lady is fine now, so all worked out in the end.

Torres del Paine - 1

We had signed up for two walks today.  The morning outing was to walk along an escarpment where condors nest - the intent being to see the condors soaring over the valley.  The walk was gently uphill to start with good views over the landscape.  We saw the native vegetation and a variety of animals and birds - hares, grey foxes, guanacos, rheas, geese and cara-cara.  The morning was fairly still and sunny - not good for condors who need the breeze to soar on the thermals.  As a result, we saw them from a distance only and then only a few.  The end of the walk was a little more testing - down a sharp slope with some patches of scree and loose rock.  Not a bad introductory walk and certainly a pipe opener!

Back to the hotel, we went for a wallow in the pool before lunch and had it to ourselves to enjoy the view and the outdoor spa pool.

The afternoon walk was called the Hunters' Trail - for two reasons, the native aboriginals used to hunt guanaco here; now the hunters are the puma, whose leftovers are visited by the condors then the cara-cara then the foxes and then the armadillo!  There was plenty of evidence of this; bones aplenty.  As we moved along the route we could see condors in the air - and closer than in the morning.  At one point, a young condor lifted off near us, having been feeding on a young guanaco.  The older condors were hanging back which could have suggested that a puma was not too far away.  The guanaco appeared to be fairly fresh, which could have pointed to the same conclusion.  No sign of a big cat for the walkers though.

Next stop en route was having climbed a slope to the side of a valley where there are some cave paintings of indeterminate age (seems to be a dispute amongst the carbon 14 daters).  Then, over the top of a ridge and a steady descent to the road.  About 6.5km this afternoon, but all very gentle.

The clouds were gathering this afternoon, but have been clearing this evening allowing us good views over Lake Samiento and the mountains.  We are hopeful that the weather will continue to be kind to us.

Punta Arenas to Torres del Paine

A 7 a.m. disembarkent meant we were up early.  The morning' trip was a walk on Magdelena Island, whose residents are a colony of Magellan Penguins and a few of their predators - skuas and cara-cara.  These are a variety of penguin that builds a burrow. 

 Females generally lay two eggs and, subject to the attentions of the skuas and care cara, the pair may end up with two chicks.  As the chicks take only five weeks to reach the size of the parent, burrows give the appearance of being quite crowded in places!  There are penguins everywhere, with territorial bickering, mothers preening chicks and parents going off fishing.  There was also one King Penguin, some distance from where he should have been (in Antartica) on one of the beaches, but some distance from the path when we got there. (Sorry, no photo, Pete got one but he can't download on the blog, you have to put up with my i pad efforts!)On the next island is a seal colony so there is the occasional visit from a seal looking for pre-packed fish (a penguin on its way back to shore).

Having finished our packing, it was a wait to dock and get ashore and through Chilean customs, then a 5 hour minibus journey to our next stop in Torres del Paine (the blue towers).  The hotel is on the edge of the national park, with views over a lake to the mountains from the main rooms, the bedrooms and the pool.  Time this evening only to unpack, sort out our walks for the four days we have here and enjoy the view over a glass or two.  Also, with the first Internet for a week (and not the quickest connection) to download emails and deal or delete as appropriate!

Stella Australis 7

The last full day of the trip on the boat is spent mainly at sea, with some splendid scenery.  More lectures - one on Magellan and his route through the islands here and another on Darwin - filled the morning on our way to the Aguilar Glacier.

Disembarking on the shore of a fjord, walking along its edge and then turning into a tributary valley we got or first view of the glacier, which is hanging over the pool of meltwater that it feeds.  The ice looks blue in places and the nose of the glacier is cracked.  From there we also had views of the impressive mountains above the other side of the fjord.

(Trying to be artistic...just for you Clare)

Mundane things like packing for tomorrow, when we have our last excursion and disembark.

Stella Australis 6 - Cape Horn 2

We had decided that we would only go back up to Cape Horn if the weather was better than on Tuesday. When we peeked around the curtain at 0630 in the morning,  the sea appeared to be remarkably calm and there wasn't a cloud in sight - a complete contrast to our previous visit.  As a result, we had no choice but to climb the steps again to experience one of the few calm days at the end of the continent.  It was glorious weather; warm and sunny with little wind.  We went back to the monument and could take more care over our photos.  We did not do the lighthouse this time round.

When all were back on board, a little mist was forming over the calm ocean.  The Captain then made his decision to 'round the Horn', which is a rare occurrence (only the fourth time this season, since September 9, and for some of the guides their first time).  It was quite a sight made even more atmospheric by the gathering mists.

Pirate flag flown to celebrate rounding the horn.

We then sailed to Wulaia Bay for a second visit, but opted to do the tougher walk on this occasion. During the sail, we had two talks on Darwin (this leg is part of a special Darwin Cruise, so much on him), unfortunately delivered by an expert with low lecturing skills!  A video after dinner (elephant seals and penguins) and the light just lasting as we passed the first two glaciers in Gacier Alley rounded off a memorable day.  We are pleased to have experience a breezy day at Cape Horn, for those who were on today's trip must wonder what the fuss is about.

Stella Australis 5 - Ushuaia

Having been to the southern end of the continent, we were now docked in the southernmost town in the World. This is our day in Argentina.  When we awoke it was beaming sunshine.

We have a tour today, which was a bit of a mystery to us as we did not book it!  We were collected by Land Rover at 0830.  We drove along the main highway out of the town (only some 3500km to Buenos Aires).  We went into the Garibaldi pass - named after a postman not the Italian revolutionary or the biscuit.  At the top of the pass, we left the main road and went onto the track that follows the original route through the beech forest there.  This was a four wheel drive route - bumpy, slopey and wet in places. Having rejoined the main route, with great views of the mountains on Tierra del Fuego, we found out that there are attempts to build a winter sports industry down here.  When all the animals were brought out of Antartica, many of the Huskies were repatriated here.  We saw some at a winter sports base, where dog sledding, cross country skiing and snow mobiling are all possible. The sun was still out and it was warm in it.

Then on to see the two main lakes.  The first was Lago Escondido, which sits in a glaciated valley and was extended by an earthquake. Here we spent a little time on the water in a Canadian style canoe.  We then went on, parked and walked to a viewpoint over Lake Fagnano - this lake is about 100km long and is almost long enough to divide the island.

From there we returned to the first lake and trekked through the woods to the lake shore before a late lunch of Choripan (alright, a sausage sandwich) followed by a lump of steak cooked on the barbecue - washed down with the near mandatory Malbec (Argentinian here of course).  Then the walk back (assisting with digestion) and a ride back to Ushuaia.  We got dropped off in the main street to have a look before we were due back on board - as this was mainly souvenir shops or shops selling outdoor clothing, we did not spend much time there.  Somehow, the Patagonian weather has delivered an unusually warm and sunny day - absolutely lovely to be out in it.  Back on board for the briefings - as tomorrow is the one 'repeat' day, we knew what was coming, but had to attend.

Stella Australis 4 - End of the World

After a night punctuated by a couple of choppy spells, we woke for our early start at Cape Horn to a grey, drizzly morning.  The sea where we were anchored did not appear to be overly rough. As we waited, kitted up in wet gear and life-jackets, it was clear that it was quite windy. The wet abated while we were waiting for the crew were deciding whether we could land or not. The decision was made and we were ferried off to the foot of the cliff in the bay where the ship was.  Then, 157 steps later, we were at the cliff top and exposed to what was then a stiff breeze.  More steps and walkways took us up to the monument; then down from there to go up to the lighthouse on the Cape (more steps).  Also, next to the lighthouse is a small wooden chapel.  By now the wind was getting stronger and the crew members were trying to get everyone back to the ship.  On a good day, one is probably allowed a little more time here - but with the wind, it was easy to see why the sea South of the Cape is one of the most treacherous in poor weather.

When all were back on board, we motored across Nassau Bay and, whilst we were watching a screening of Shackleton's ill fated trip on the Endeavour, we were able to participate in sensurround as the ship was pitching and rolling well by then.  We had a couple of hours of running through the heavy swell and a number of guests 'retired' to their quarters. We survived.

In calmer waters, we went to Wulaia Bay and did a walk up through the beech forest there to a viewpoint that looked out over the bay where Darwin had landed.

From there we motored up toward Ushuaia, where we would be landing tomorrow morning.