Arrivederci Roma

Last day today.  First thing was spent packing and deciding what we might do on our last outing.  We were back to the Metro and bus routing - this time reasonably successful in finding the right bus and stop.  Our first destination was one of the sets of ancient catacombs which were outside the Roman city.  The one we visited was the biggest, named after St Callixtus, with 5 levels and over 500,000 burials there.  The tour took us through the narrow passageways where Christian burials took place in secret prior to the acceptance of Christianity in Rome.  We saw a chamber where 3rd century popes were buried, 'family' plots and cubicles where larger family groups could be laid to rest.

The whole system is carved out of the volcanic rock and goes well below the surface. We went to the second level which was some 52 steps below ground level.  The passageways are very narrow and, even with electric lights, quite claustrophobic - what it was like with only small oil lamps for light is difficult to imagine.

After this, it was bus and metro back into the city and a walk to a restaurant a little off the main tourist trail for lunch.  We went there as the write ups indicated that it was the sort of place that the Roman businessmen popped into for their pasta lunch.  The write up was correct - we were in a room with said businessmen and some ladies meeting up for lunch.  As it was our last meal in Rome, we opted for pasta followed by meat.  We overbid and both of us were struggling to deal with the meat course.  The pasta was great, as the plaudits written in the wall by previous customers attest.

No option then but to try to walk off some of the calories consumed.  We set out on a fairly circuitous route back to our hotel passing by the Victor Emmanuel exhibition centre, the four fountains crossroads and more churches that one could hope to record let alone visit.

Reunited with our luggage, a walk to the station and a train ride to the airport.

We have certainly given the shoe leather a battering over the last 4 days.  The weather was very kind - sunny and warm for the most and only clouding over and cooling a bit this afternoon.  All in all an excellent break.

A Few More Churches

.....and a lot more walking.  We were slightly late setting off this morning and decided to risk the queues so as to visit St Peters in the Vatican.  We went to the metro to get there, which was somewhat crowded and led to a close encounter with a pick-pocket, who got a little too close to Pete for comfort.

It was a bit of a wasted trip as the Pope was giving audiences this morning, so whilst the square was full and thousands were milling about, the basilica was not going to open until about 1 o'clock, which was no good to us at that point.  We aborted and decided to make our way up one of the seven hills.  The choice if transport was a bus, but finding the stop proved a challenge.  One drink stop later we did get a bus to the top of the hill, so we could see the Garibaldi monument and look out over the City from the viewpoint.

We bussed back down and then walked through the backstreets to visit a Gelateria recommended by Clare and Rachel.  A further sampling followed.

We then thought we would make our way to the church of St Clement.  Off we went, found a bus, found the church - it was closed for lunch/siesta!  So we aimed up another hill, called in to have a look at a monastery, and then went further up and visited the cathedral of St John, which was huge and highly decorated.

Thereafter it was back down the hill for a drink stop which filled the time before we could visit St Clement's, which is another of these sites where the structure has been built over time after time.  There was a 2nd century church on the site (some of which is still visible below ground level) which has been built on/over as it was extended or refurbished over time. The present interior has a beautiful ceiling and frescos.

From there we walked up to one of the peaks of the Episcopine Hill and saw some of the remains of the huge bath house complex that was there.

We then wove our way through the side streets coming across the basilica of Maria Maggiore.  We arrive at a time when there were four masses being conducted in different side chapels - varying languages and approach it seems.

From there, a walk back to the hotel and a chance to get the shoes off and feet up.

All'Ora

Pete had booked dinner for Ingrid's birthday after doing some degree of research into where to go.

A short taxi ride from the hotel, we went to a place called All'Ora.  With a couple of small modifications, we took a tasting menu comprising a number of smaller portions.  There was an initial 'course' of amuse bouches - a variety of canapés.  There was a macaroon with squid ink and salmon, a blini with caviar, something that looked like a marshmallow on biscuit that was, in fact, tomato bread with a cheese topping, some 'crisps' flavoured with onion or paprika and similar morsels.

The menu ordered comprised a salt cod tiramisu (for Ingrid, which was substituted for some deep fried sweetbreads for Pete.

Next was a Carbonara reduction - well, this was a pasta free version served in an eggshell and it was really tasty.

Then we had something that looked a bit like a Ferrero Rocher, but was braised oxtail with a coating that had peanuts on the outside and a sauce that was so rich that it looked like chocolate.

This was followed by a ravioli of marscapone with a duck ragout and a red wine reduction.

The next course was quail breast and leg on mashed potato with a lovely sauce.

After that, a pre-dessert of a profiterole with raspberry and truffle. The real dessert was a raspberry 'cloud' for Ingrid (the original menu item being a tiramisu, which was avoided by virtue of the coffee).

That was not the escape clause though - the plate of petit fours that followed was quite a mix and included a mini candy floss.

All this washed down with a matching wine selection and the Italian equivalent of port from Montepulciano and a Roman grappa spelled out a very enjoyable meal and evening.

Roman Birthday

Today was a big celebration in Rome. The Romans marking the 2768th anniversary of the founding of the city. Oh - it is Ingrid's birthday too, but she is a bit younger!

More walking today.....first up, a wander to the metro (via a church which had a 'meridian' on the floor which acted as a calendar using the angle of the sun projected through a hole in the mouth of a decorative lion on the wall) and a packed train trip one stop beyond the Colosseum.  We walked through the Circo Massimo, an ancient Roman chariot racing stadium.  Then to the church of St George for a quick look before climbing up the Capitoline Hill with a stop at the Greek Orthodox Church in Rome.

From there we walked past the town hall where the Caribinieri band were setting up to play as part of the City celebrations and into the Victor Emmanuel Palace which, it seems, is an eternal maze of staircases.  From there we looked into the Basilica Santa Maria and then took the lift to the roof of the building for some great views of the City of Rome.  The Band struck up immediately after the noon cannon so our viewing was accompanied by them.

From there, we intended to get a bus, but were somewhat caught out by the closing of a few streets for some parade within the city celebrations.  We walked by the imperial fora and toward one of the City museums.  In the end, we started off the main drag and came across an interesting street with a number of bridges that appeared to join buildings to some greenery behind.

We walked all the way to Piazza del Popolo and the museum which had a special Leonardo da Vinci exhibition.  The exhibition comprised a number of replicas of Da Vinci machines and items from his drawings and notebooks and displays of drawings and a few paintings.  All in all, very interesting.

We then walked on and over the Tiber to find a place for a drink (and a welcome sit down).  Here we decided to try to get into the Vatican Museum as we had been told that the queues subside by 3.15/3.30.  We worked out the bus to get us there and set out - but did not find a bus stop with the right number on it until we were a couple of hundred yards short of target.

The queue was non-existent, so we went in to the museum.  It is an incredible place, with lots of artefacts from Ancient Rome and a collection of more modern artworks housed in galleries which appear to have been commissioned by various popes intent on decorating them to the max.  There were some wonderful ceilings and paintings (and a number that were not to our taste).

The route through the museum takes on, eventually, through the Sistine Chapel with its frescos and ceiling paintings, some of which are stunning given when they were painted.

The route out goes through more galleries, but at that stage, most are unable to take in more (and some of the more modern galleries are less interesting anyway).

From the Vatican, we had done enough, so we were back on the Metro (by a slightly circuitous route) and back to our hotel for a shower before an excursion out to dinner (as to which, see the separate post).

The Walking Tour

We were due to meet our guide at 0900, so left the hotel in plenty of time to get to the meeting point.  We walked to a metro station and went the few stops to Colsseo station.  We were early, but the guide appeared ahead of time too.

First stop was the Flavian Amphitheatre, the Colsseum, where we got a good impression of the scale of the building in its heyday and the events held there.

From there, into the area of the Forum and up the Palatine hill to the terrace above the former imperial palace.  This gave great views over the forum and to the Colsseum.

Then back down into the forum to look at the remains of the old basilicas and the churches - which were generally a series of churches, one built on top of the other.  We saw the altar on which Julius Caesar was cremated and the triumphal arches at each end of the forum.

From there, we went through the area of the town hall with its statue of Marcus Aurelius and on into the Jewish quarter.  Here there are some large 'palaces' amongst the smaller streets and passageways.  Every square has a church.

Then on to where Julis Caesar was murdered - now Rome's cat sanctuary!  This was on the end of Pompey's estate which had formal buildings and gardens (now beneath the general fabric of Rome).

There are areas where the modern buildings follow the shape of ancient theatres because they are built on the foundations of them.  We saw this and, below the current buildings, in some places 10m below the present ground level, parts of the original buildings.

One could not avoid a church or two - one with a fresco demonstrating the use of perspective, including what appeared to be a dome's interior painted on a flat ceiling, the Parthenon and the English church in Rome.

We walked through the main market with its varieties of pasta and seasonings for the Italian dishes we have all heard of.

A brief stop at an ice cream parlour ( more than 150 flavours - Baskin Robins eat your heart out) and then on to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish steps.  Over 6 hours of walking and our tour was at an end. All very interesting and we might be able to remember a few of the many facts we were told (if we are lucky).

We followed this with a drink at a pavement cafe (and a sit down) before getting the metro back toward our hotel.

To Rome

All seemed to be going well until we got to check-in at the airport.  We pulled the passports from their covers to find that we were standing there with Ingrid and Kirsty's!!! Cue panic stations and a call to Kirsty asking her to get Pete's passport, jump in the car and get to Gatwick 'pronto'.  Kirsty did the job and with a handover from a car window in the outside lane of the drop off area, we had the necessary paperwork. Then the jog back to the terminal which led to a tweak of a calf muscle (silly eh?).  After that, flight and train into Rome were uneventful - thank goodness.  Hotel seems fine; a walk from the station but less than a kilometre.

We walked out to a local restaurant for dinner (a recommendation from the concierge but one that Pete had looked at before we travelled).  We had the local main courses (an osso bucco and a saltimbocca) and shared a carbonara starter - all very good with a bottle of local wine!